New York Fashion Week S/S 24 has arrived, and it’s unquestionably one of the most thrilling events on fashion aficionado’s calendar this year. Whether you’re eager to witness the ingenuity of scrappy young designers conjuring avant-garde collections or you’re excited to see fashion’s titans orchestrate runway spectacles, this week promises exhilaration like no other.
For those who weren’t at the front row in the Big Apple this week, we’ve got you covered.
Peter Do’s Debut for Helmut Lang: A Showstopper!
Peter Do’s debut as the creative director for Helmut Lang was the highlight of New York Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2024. Collaborating with Vietnamese poet Ocean Vuong, the show at the Skylight building at Essex Crossing featured block-type prose on the concrete floor, seamlessly integrated into the garments, accompanied by Vuong’s intimate photography. This unique collection effortlessly blended ’90s minimalism with a touch of romance, showcasing boxy, cutout blazers, slinky mini dresses, and cocoon-like coats, leaving a lasting impression on the audience. It was a remarkable fusion of fashion and poetry that defined the week’s most anticipated show.
Sandy Liang’s Ode to Contemporary Girlhood: “The Virgin Suicides”
Sandy Liang’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection, titled “The Virgin Suicides” as an homage to Sofia Coppola’s debut film, perfectly captured contemporary girlhood. Drawing inspiration from similarly-dressed groups of girls and women, Liang presented a feminine and whimsical range of garments at the garden of the Cooper Hewitt Museum. The collection featured taffeta dresses, pleated skirts, bows, and a color palette dominated by navy, cream, and icy pink, with hints of pale yellow and orange-red. Liang skillfully blended elements of balletcore, pageantcore, and Y2K fashion, introducing playful sea shell motifs on T-shirts and as earrings.
Collina Strada’s Thought-Provoking Runway: AI Meets Sustainability
Collina Strada’s runway was nothing short of thought-provoking. The brand used AI to synthesize ideas from their past collections, resulting in a plethora of AI-interpolated design suggestions. These were then meticulously refined and edited for the runway. Known for their commitment to sustainability, Collina Strada’s models sported blank, dead-eyed smiles at the end of the runway, a poignant nod to the frivolity of NYFW in a world slowly warming.
Dion Lee’s Vision of Utility and Dystopia
Dion Lee’s collection marked a shift towards a more business-oriented style, departing from his club-focused designs. The Australian designer showcased his versatile lineup, blending modernist workwear with utility-focused designs. The collection featured unique elements like wrench-adorned white button-down bodysuits, tool-belted thigh-high boots, and black blazers with leather pockets. Lee introduced vibrant colors and innovative details, such as an orange wire forming a distinctive bag. His workwear-inspired pieces included screw-adorned items, transformed work boots, folded technical pants, and cinched asymmetrical shirting. The collection effortlessly transitioned into captivating going-out looks, including intricate lace tops and sectional dresses, highlighting Lee’s exploration of utility-meets-atelier aesthetics.