Copenhagen Fashion Week reaffirmed its status as a global hub for cutting-edge design and creativity this season. Despite the absence of key labels (Di)vision and Saks Potts, plus Ganni and Cecilie Bahnsen, which have flown the nest for Paris, optimism and innovation still shone through. “Young designers really brought their A-game this season,” said Allyson Shiffman, print editor of Vogue Scandinavia. “There was a lot of creativity and a lot of optimism.” Among the standout moments were Stine Goya’s show at the Kunsten Museum of Modern Art, nearly every CPHFW attendee sporting a bonnet, sustainability remaining a key focus, and Nicklas Skovgaard stealing the spotlight as our star of the season.
Skovgaard’s latest collection took cues from Andy Warhol’s 1986 Hans Christian Andersen screen prints, an often-overlooked series based on the Danish author’s famous fairy tale characters. Warhol, fascinated by iconic figures, dedicated an entire series to Andersen, using bold outlines and pops of colour to transform the delicate paper cuttings into striking works of art. Skovgaard translated this interplay between tradition and Pop Art into his designs.
The collection reimagines Andersen’s world with pannier skirts, high-neck jackets, and fringed trousers that mimic the crisp edges of paper cut-outs. A standout black coat, adorned with hand-torn silk organza “feathers,” directly echoes Warhol’s layering technique. Set against a stark black-and-white runway, as local band Fame Hunter played to a lively crowd, the contrast heightened the drama, much like Warhol’s use of colour and shadow.
The 1980s influence, often central to Skovgaard’s work, was dialled back in favour of a more refined aesthetic. Beauty elements followed suit, with deep matte lips and exaggerated lashes bringing a graphic touch that felt distinctly Warholian. Jackets and coats—Nordic wardrobe staples—featured exaggerated proportions and leather panelling, including a collaboration with Ecco on statement boots.
By blending Warhol’s tribute to Andersen with his own artistic vision, Skovgaard delivered a collection that was both nostalgic and forward-thinking— making it one of the most compelling moments of Copenhagen Fashion Week for us here at TheArtGorgeous.
